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„Ht)LDWAY'S 



DIAGRAM & SCALE 



FOR CUTTING 



30 DIFFERENT SIZES OF COATS & JACKETS. 



ADAPTED FOR WHOLESALE AND RETAIL TRADE. 




Entered according to Act of Congress, by A. Holdway, in the Clerk's Office for the 
Southern District of the State of New York. 



NEW YORK: 
CHARLES VINTEN, PRINTER, 100 NASSAU STREET. 

1856. 

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INTRODUCTION 



It has often been a matter of regret and disappointment to> 
the learner, as well as to the cutter of matured experience* 
that all or nearly all systems or rules for Garment Cutting 
hitherto published, have tended rather to mystify and confuse, 
than to simplify and condense the science intended to be ex- 
plained, and to waste the time of the Cutler in a mass of un- 
meaning chalk lines, rather than speedily produce the effecfc 
required. 

To obviate that difficulty, and enable the Cutter at once to 
arrive at the end in view, viz r a well developed garment, is the 
object of the present work. The approbation bestowed upon 
it by some of the first class cutters, is proof of its utility, 
especially to wholesale establishments, which must be diowbly 
enhanced by its- rapid and extensive &ale. 






Has this book Been 
Scanned? Y / N 
Scanner's Initials: 




REMARKS. 

In order thoroughly to comprehend the working of the 
scale it is only necessary to study it for a few minutes. 

Thus for instance, to draw a 20 inch size, you are required to 
ascertain the divisions of that size. Find size 20 in the column, 
of sizes, and opposite it you will find all the sub-divisions as 
accurately defined as fractions will admit, as follows : — £, 5 
inches; -i, 6f inches ; |-, 7^ inches ; £, 10 inches; and -|, 
13£ inches. The shoulder elevator 4^-, which is invaria- 
bly £ inch less than a ^ in all sizes. Again, say size 50, ^ is 
12£ inches ; ^, 16f-, inches ; -|, 18|- inches ; J, 25 inches ; -|, 
33 J inches ; and the shoulder elevator 12 inches ; and so on 
in all the other sizes the divisions will be found as near as can 
be laid down in fractions. The Diagram is 36 size, reduced 
to one third in all its proportions. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MEASUREMENT. 

In order to obtain a good fitting garment, the first step is to 
study the attitude and bearing of your client as minutely as 
your time will admit, and to take your dimensions very cor- 
rectly, as one mistaken figure may be apt to derange the 
whole. 

Before taking any measures, mark a point at the centre of 
the back between the shoulders, another under it at the 
shoulder blade, and then the natural waist. 

Place the end of the measure on the neck bone, at the top 
cf the back, where the collar seam should be, take the length 
to the middle of the back between the shoulders, then the next 
point at the shoulder blade, and again the waist point. 

Noting the length of waist that fashion may require, bring 
the measure down for the full 'length of the skirt. 

Placing the arm on a square with the body, measure across 
the back at the centre point, bring the measure down to the 
elbow and thence to the extreme length of the sleeve. 



Find the width around the scye as exactly as possible, then 
the widths at the elbow and wrist, which two latter must be 
guided by fashion. 

Apply the measure as before to the top of the back, bring- 
ing it down the front to the waist, next bring it round to the 
centre of the waist at the top of the hip joint, then round to 
the waist point at the back seam, next up to the shoulder 
blade, point again up to the point between the shoulders, and 
lastly up to the top of the back. Those are the balance mea- 
sures. 

Measure round the chest just under the arms again, half 
way between the chest and waist, and again at the waist. 

For military or button up coats take the width round the 
neck, and the distance across the chest from arm to arm, and 
the length from the collar bone to the waist in front. 



TO FORM THE BACK. 

AS IN DIAGRAM. 

Draw a straight line A, A, for the back seam, assume a point 
B,as in Diagram, ~ of an inch below the square of the line, 
as top of the back. From B, mark according to measurement 
previously obtained, a point D, as the centre of the back be- 
tween the shoulders, (see Diagram 5^ inches,) another point 
E, as the shoulder blade point (Diagram 7-| inches,) and C, as 
the waist. At each of those points draw straight lines at right 
angles with the back seam. On the line D, apply the measure 
for the width of the back, and at that point draw a line 0,0, 
parallel with the back seam, cutting the line D, in the point F, 
which will give the centre of the back scye which is formed by 
projecting at top \ inch beyond the line 0,0, and going a \ 
inch at bottom within the line, making the scye long or short 
as fashion or fancy may dictate. 

From B, draw a line B,L, up to the square of the line for 
the back-neck any length you may desire, (Diagram 2J 
inches.) Proceed then to form the shoulder seam from L to 
O, and the side seam from O to C, as fashion may require, 
forming also the back skirt according to your measurement 
required. 



• 



TO FORM THE SLEEVE. 

SEE DIAGRAM. 

Let the straight line A, A, represent the edge of the cloth, 
and assume a point B, as the top of the back-arm. Applying the 
measure, mark the point C, as the elbow, and D, as the ex- 
treme length of the sleeve, allowing for cuff or not, as fancy 
or fashion may suggest. 

From B, on the line A, A, mark a point E, 1 of the breast 
measure (Diagram 4£ inches) ; at that point draw a straight 
line at right angles with the line A, A, on that line mark a point 
O, one half the distance from B to E, (Diagram 2- inches,) 
and from O, as a centre with the distance B,0, as a radius ; 
describe a circle cutting the line E, in the point Gr, for the top 
of the sleeve. The variation necessary is to raise the point G, 
1 inch, and to extend it 1 inch to the point H, as in Diagram. 
You will then have the sleeve top as B,F,H. Proceed then to 
form the backarm seam from B to C, going in ^ inch at the'point 
E ; draw from B to E, and from E, gradually going out again 
to C, the elbow ; again draw a line from C to D, going in any 
distance from the line A, that fashion may require ; draw the 
bottom of the sleeve at D, and draw the fore arm seam from 
H to L, on that line, by your measurement of widths obtained. 
Mark also the under side sleeve according to the measure of 
the scye, allowing for any fullness that may be requisite. 



TO FORM THE SKIRT OF DRESS COAT. 

Let AA, represent the edge of the cloth ; draw a line BB, 
parallel to it any distance you may desire for the width of the 
plait. Assume the point B, as bottom of the skirt, and apply 
the back-skirt, which will give the point C, as the top. Mark 
from C. on the line B, a point L, 8 inches down. At L, draw 
a short line at right angles with BB. Mark a point O, on that 
line, 2 inches in from the line B, and placing the angle of 
the square on the point C, at the top, allow one arm to pass 
through the point O, and draw a line from C, corresponding 
with the other arm of the square, (Diagram C,D,) which will 



give the top of the skirt at angle of 12J degrees, as nearly as 
possible. The variation required is to lower the top at C, 
f| inch, and go in 1 inch, (as at E, in Diagram) ; as also, to 
lower the front at D, J| inch, which makes the strap to keep 
its place. Proceed then to mark off what is necessary for the 
waist measure from C, and form the remainder of the skirt 
according to fashion or inclination. 



TO FORM THE SKIRT OF FROCK COAT. 

Let AA, represent the front edge of the cloth. Draw a 
straight line BB, at right angles with AA, and 3 inches below 
B, draw another line C, parallel to BB. On the line C, mark 
a point 1^ inch from the edge, (C, in Diagram,) as the lapel 
seam. Allowing for the width of the back, mark from the 
lapel seam the width of your waist-measure up to the line 
BB, (D, in Diagram,) with any fullness you may desire, and 
draw the line from C to D, as top of the waist, hollowing the 
seam or not as the shape of your Client may require. Draw 
a perpendicular line from D to C, and extend the line C, as 
much beyond that line as the distance from D to C, (3 inches 
in Diagram,) to the point E, and by drawing the plait line 
from D, through E, you have the spring of the skirt as nearly 
as possible at an angle of 45 degrees. Should the fashion, 
shape or inclination of your Client not require such- spring, 
it may be reduced by drawing the plait line through the 
points F, Gr, or H, as may be desirable. Proceed then to 
form the bottom of the skirt, regulating the length by the 
back-skirt. 



TO FORM THE FOREPART. 

Having transferred the chalk line D, to the left back, lay it 
on the cloth, the top inclining outwards. Chalk round the 
back scye and as low down in the side seam as the shoulder 
blade line E. Place one arm of the square on the back seam 
allowing the other to rest on the line D, in the centre of the 
back, continue that line on the cloth, to an indefinite lengfh ; 
you will thus have the straight line (0,0, in Diagram,) partly on 
the back and partly on the doth as a Foundation line. From 
the back seam on that line mark the following points : — A as \ 
the breast measure ; B asi; C asf-; D as|; and E as §^ 
At the point A, draw a straight line A, I, at right angles with 
the foundation line 0,0, towards the bottom of the cloth. 
Mark the point I, from A, J inch less than i the breast tnea- 



sure, (Diagram 4 inches) ; at the point B, draw another line 
B,K, parallel to A,I r equal to -y-g- the breast measure, (Diagram 
2] inches) ; at the point C, draw another straight line at right 
angles with 0,0, towards the top of the cloth, and on that line 
mark a point D,d, equal to ^ the breast measure, minus £ an 
inch, (Diagram S£ inches,) which line is called the Shoulder 
Elevator : place the angle of the square on the point D,d,and 
with one arm extending to the point E, on the foundation line 
O.O, draw a straight line from D,d, to E, and another line to 
correspond with the other arm of the square towards the back 
which will fall a little from the back scye ; lift the back and 
placing the point D, of the back on the angle D,d, of the 
shoulder elevator, and the back seam lying on the line D,d, E, 
the top towards the point E, wherever the back shoulder 
seam rests, there chalk the shoulder seam of the forepart; 
chalk also the top of the back up to the line D,d, E. It is 
necessary to lower the shoulder seam 1 inch towards the scye 
commencing from the shoulder elevator, for the sloping of the 
shoulders ; you will thus have the shoulder seam as G,H, in 
Diagram. 

Apply the back to its original position where it is chalked 
round the scye, letting the line across the back correspond 
exactly with the foundation line, 0,0, as before ; move the back 
in at the top from the shoulder blade point E, -| inch, (as at Y 
in Diagram,) and draw the top of the side seam to correspond 
with the back. Proceed then to form the scye by drawing 
the lines from H to K, and from Y to I, and the remainder 
from K to L, and I to L, as in Diagram, according to your 
scye measure and in accordance with the bearing of your 
Client, as his arms may incline forward or backward ; you will 
thus have the scye in its true position necessary for the 
anatomical construction of you" Client. Proceed next to mark 
the balance measures. Apply the measure to the point B at 
top of the back and bring it down the cloth for the front waist, 
(P in Diagram) ; next down through the front of the scye for 
the waist at hip joint; next bring it round the front of the 
scye towards the bottom of the back and move the back on 
the point E, at the shoulder blade as on a pivot in towards your 
measure, till the waist balance measure strikes the back seam 
at the natural waist point ; there on the cloth mark where the 
side seam of the back comes. Proceed in like manner with 
the balance measure of the shoulder blade, the point between 
the shoulders, and the top of the back, marking on the cloth 
wherever the side-seam of the back may touch, (Diagram 
points B, D and E). Proceed then to draw the side seam of 
your forepart in accordance with those points so obtained. 
Allowing the back to rest on the side seam as chalked, mark 



your chest and waist measures, allowing whatever ^xtra width 
may be desired or required by fashion in addition to your chest 
measure. 

Before drawing your front as P,P, it will be necessary to 
find the exact position of the side body seam, which will be 
found by marking a point M, ^ the waist measure in from the 
back seam, and another point S, at top i the breast measure 
in from the point E, on the back seam towards the scye. A 
straight line drawn from the point S, at the scye to the point 
M, at the bottom will be found in all sizes to coi respond with 
the anatomical construction of the body, where the hollowing 
of the side body is required. After taking out what may be 
required at the side body, proceed to form the front as P,P, 
and the waist line according to your measurements, and while 
forming the waist line, take out the puff or gusset in front of 
the Forepart, which, in the formation of some Clients is 
necessary to give additional fulness to the chest, and a grace- 
ful contour to the lower portion of the Forepart, (as at N, in 
Diagram.) Next form the gorge or collar seam ; from the 
point G at the shoulder draw the collar seam through the line 
0,0, -| inch in from the point D, and i inch under the said line 
regulating the remainder by fashion or will of your Client. 

Military or button up coats of course being regulated by mea- 
sure of the neck and the width across the chest from arm to 
arm. 



I have thus endeavoured to produce a succinct and explicit 
description of a system, which, founded as it is upon purely 
scientific principles, will be found to possess fewer objections 
than any hitherto submitted to the trade ; and which, while it 
can be adapted to all sizes by its mathematical exactness, 
can also be brought to bear upon all shapes, by its anatomical 
correctness, when guided by the system of measurement laid 
down, which in all cases must be taken correctly as being the 
Foundation of a good fit. 

The simplicity of its explanation has also been the subject 
of praise and admiration of some first rate experienced cut- 
ters, whose judgment I highly prize, and to whose opinion 
most Cutters in the Trade will defer. And, as their opinion 
after all must be the criterion by which the Trade in general 
will be guided, I submit it to the judgment of all good 
Cutters. 

ALEXANDER HOLDWAY. 



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HOLD WAY'S 

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wholesaic IstaMtshmente, and guarantied by /Tfuen years experience in New York, Pttris, London .'■(■■ 

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die aasaedehnUsten Operations von ffrossgeschdtleA amvendiar und isldurch fiinrxduydnrio, Erfakrung in Jhi York, 7',,/i.v und London garantirt. 




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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 841 5 9 




